Marin Magazine Blog

An Inventive Take on Classics at the new The Republic Restaurant

November 20th, 2009 at 03:45pm Somer

“Ooh, that place has always been cursed,” I heard at least three passersby say the other night. Yes, it’s true, the restaurant space formerly known as Jones and even more formerly as the Marina Sports Bar never really worked. On paper, the location should have been great—it’s in a neighborhood where residents go out (and go out often) and the televisions that were always prominently displaying the big game should have acted as a magnet for the locals but alas, both spots were shuttered.

Thankfully, the team behind Bin 38 wasn’t afraid to give this location the makeover it deserved. The new space, The Republic, still has televisions, 12 of them to be exact. The high-def TV’s have screen sizes ranging from 42 inches to a gigantic 82 inches, but here’s the difference—at The Republic, when it’s not game time, all but the bar screens become undetectable, receding into the walls or sliding under cover. Another change? The team changed the location of the front door from the Lombard side of the street to the more pedestrian friendly Scott side location.

Inside, Jim Maxwell of Architects II, who spearheaded the design—he’s the same guy behind the über-cool Dosa on Fillmore—incorporated a contemporary look of raw features like a stained concrete floor along with traditional décor like overstuffed leather club chairs and banquettes. Maxwell also used native, reclaimed California Redwood for the two communal tables in the bar area.

One of the best design elements for the space has to be the divisible areas, which allow groups to gather in semi-private rooms. The dining room can seat 54 people (100 people reception style), the semiprivate, elevated area can seat up to 15 guests, and the lounge can seat up to 25 people. The old space always seemed so cavernous, and never inviting unless it was packed, whereas the new design offers comfy alcoves and seating areas depending on your mood.

Although with the winter weather I didn’t get to experience the outdoor eating space, The Republic is set to offer seating for up to 36 guests on it’s Scott Street side sidewalk–just think of all that people watching…

What about the food and drink?

Let’s start with the drinks. Well, I don’t drink beer, but I’m assuming some of you readers might—The Republic team says the restaurant has the largest all-American craft beer list in San Francisco—very impressive. And something I can get on board with is the American boutique wine selection of 14 by the glass and 30 bottles. When I was there I tried the margarita, which was by far one of the best I’ve had outside of Mexico.

As for the food, I never got a chance to try executive chef Brian Beach’s food when he was at The Waterfront or Adagia but I’m now a fan.

I started with the Dungeness Crab Jalapeno Poppers with popcorn emulsion and cilantro-lime crème fraiche—which paired perfectly with my margarita. The dish was huge and a good choice for sharing. The peppers had the perfect sweet and hot combination and the crème fraiche was a nice creamy complement.

Next, I tried the Grilled Little Gem Lettuces with a parmesan flan and an anchovy Caesar dressing. The menu uses the word Caesar in quotes here, and it’s true, it’s definitely a ‘take’ on the Caesar but with more of a straightforward anchovy taste. The parmesan flan, went a little over my head, but it was nice to see a chef have a new take on the traditional Caesar—even if it was in quotes.

Where Beach really shined was with the entrée. The Pan-Roasted Escolar with open faced winter squash wonton ravioli, pickled mushrooms and a soy-sake butter nage could just, in itself, keep diners coming back night after night. The portion size was just right, his take on fish was inventive but not over the top or unapproachable and it was refreshing to see escolar instead of the usual salmon/halibut/sea bass fish option.

(sorry ate too fast for a picture)

Don’t miss dessert but be warned, they are huge. I indulged and tried both the root beer float (which could vie for a spot to hold up against Michael Mina’s version) and the grilled olive oil cake, which I’ve never tried before but it turned out to be a nice reprieve from the been-there-done-that chocolate cake.

Ready to check it out? Visit The Republic at 3213 Scott Street, San Francisco (about ten minutes from downtown Sausalito). For Reservations, visit OpenTable.com. The Republic is open seven days a week, starting at 4 p.m. weekdays and 9 a.m. on weekends (food served until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday). Weekend brunch will be served from 9 a.m. until 3 p.m. republicsf.com, 415.817.1337.

Entry Filed under: Food